Whiskey of The Month #17: Ardbeg Uigedail

I have a complicated relationship with Islays.  Occasionally, I'll get in the mood for a nice, smokey, peaty single malt and plunge back into a good Islay, but it doesn't happen all that often.  Too much peat and too much smoke can produce a wave of alcohol so strong that it singes your nose hairs clean off.  But, as with most things in the world of whiskey you always find something that challenges your perceptions and changes your mind.   I've tasted Laphroig, Lagavulin and Bowmore before- I've even tried the straight up 10 Year Old Ardbeg, but the Uigedail (pronounced 'ooo-ga-dal') takes things to a different level of complexity and what results is one of the most complex and interesting whiskies I've ever tasted.

Why so different?  I think it comes down to the body more than anything else-  I have yet to find an Islay that produces such a complex, complicated body.  Instead of peat and smoke, there's anywhere from three to six main notes and other under notes that take awhile to percolate in the brain.  It took me three rounds to really settle on a verdict on this one- it's that much of a pleasure to explore and it's got the pedigree to back it up: Jim Murray's Whiskey Bible declared it World Whiskey Of The Year and Scotch Single Malt of The Year in 2009 and 2010.  The San Francisco World Spirits Competition awarded this two double gold, three gold and two silver medals between 2006 and 2012.

But now, too business!

Color:  This one is darker gold/amber in color.

Body: Believe it or not, this smells like my wallet.  It's a bit of a refreshing change of pace from the other Islays that I've tried- instead of smoke and an alcoholic burn so hard it singes your nose hairs, the predominant thing that I get when I sniff this is leather, smoky leather- maybe touching on the beef jerky/smoked meat end of things.  But here's the kick that elevates this above and beyond not just most Islays but beyond many single malts as well:  this seems insanely complex for an Islay...because there's notes of what I'd swear are figs and honey in there as well.  Though maybe honey isn't quite right- it doesn't smell sweet enough for that.  Maybe molasses?

Palette: It sits very lightly on the tongue- but it's falls somewhere between the weak/watery and heavy/syrupy- the honey is a little more evident in there as well with spices and, insanely, I want to say orange peel as well?  It's hard to really get a grip on:  honey, but the spice isn't the usual peat-flavored burn at least taste wise- at least with the initial taste.  The peat hits the back of the throat on the way down though.

Finish: The spice/smoke fills the mouth with an initial harsh burn but it almost threatens to be heartburn before calming down and warming you up beautifully.

Overall:  I think I could write a whole book about this whiskey.  For an Islay, it's insanely complex and I think every time I have a taste and really sit down and think about it, there's always some new facet that pops up that I haven't considered or found yet.   Full disclosure: it took me three rounds to get to grips with this beauty and tasting it was even more fascinating, considering the fact I was getting over a cold at the time.   I think it's fair to say that this wouldn't be a good single malt to get your feet wet with, but if you've been exploring single malts and whiskies for awhile and are looking for something that will knock your socks off, then plonk down the cash for this one- it's one of the most fascinating, complex whiskies I've ever tasted.